The Next Step...

Home Time Blues....

... Back in the UnKnown.


It's, weird. It definately does not feel like I have been back one month but today being the 5th of May and the date of my return being that of the 5th of April, well; it certainly suggests that a month has passed.

My very minimal budget was running low. I was in need of an extension to my Visa, which would of meant further spending of a limited budget. Guaranteed work seemed just too far away. I decided to come home.

Though I did not perhaps experience all that I had first envisioned that I would, I certainly think I experienced enough for the four months I was away. I visited three amazing countries and took in many fantastic experiences from Laos boat trips, to Historic Cambodian Temples; from home cooked Thai food, to my own cooked Thai food; and from bruised elbows and shins, to bruised egos from sins.

I have travelled by foot, car, pick-up truck, moped, motorbike, bicycle, boats, tuk-tuk, train, plane and others.

There now however, is a void that is no longer filled. A great part of me longs to still be travelling. It is the moving from place to place and seeing new places, cultures, and people that is the greatest part of travel. If I stay somewhere too long then It is similar to where I lay my hat being my home. The urge to travel simply returns even if I am far from what is my true home.

This is another reason for my return. If I am to live somewhere for an extended period of time, then why not it be a place I know to be comfortable, with family and close friends.

Now I am back though, so is reality. Reality for me though is the Unknown. I am never anchored. That is to say, that I have still not figured out what it is I wish to do. Though the whole idea of 'what to do' is more than often based on others opinions and not often enough on something true to ourselves.

Each day can be a new experience. We do not need to seek out adventure or variety in far flung places, though it certainly helps us feel more free. The Unknown can be found right at our feet.... though often that's the scariest distance at which to step in. With everything that matters, so very close.

Riding Bitch in Bangkok...

... before anyone reads too much into the title; 'Riding Bitch' is the term used for a passenger on a motorcycle, and the intended meaning for the header of this story.

There are many ways to travle in Bangkok, but by far the quickest and most fun is on the back of a motorcycle taxi. If I am not walking through the labrinth that is Bangkok's city streets then I always opt for the motorcycle. The quickest way from A to B with a death defying exhilaration thrown in for good measure.

.

Apologies for the length of the video. It is my entire jourmey from the train station, HuaLumpong, to Kao San road, Bangkok. At roughly 12 minutes long, it gives you a good idea as to what the motocycle taxis were like.

This was, however, one of the more tame journeys I had though still with enough of near traffic contact to make an exciting trip.

Sore Back in Nong Khai

Just to let you know what the current situation is.

I'm back in Nong Khai where I collected my bankcard from Mut Mee, the guest house to which my parents sent the card, thanking you kindly for doing so.

I do leave however, at 1820 this evening on a night train bound for Bangkok.

I may upgrade my seat if possible because for the past couple of days I have not been feeling all that good. I am much better now but my neck and back were full of aches and pains and I was getting some cold symptoms. From what I here though there has been something going around.

Yesterday I woke feeling a bit better but still very much aching in the shoulders and back.

Coming up to four months in Thailand and still not having a massage, now was the time to do so. I had seen one place advertising a herbal sauna and part of me wishes I had of chose this option (still may try today).

Instead I opted for the full body massage. Oh... hang on... got that wrong... I think I must of opted for the full body torture session instead. This was one of the most gruelling hours of my life, well at least pain wise. I kept quiet though, putting a brave face on, (well; brave or contorted with pain), continually thinking... 'this is good pain'.

My thoughts were correct. I felt sooo much better after my tortuous time that I would definately recommend it.

I think the fact that I was feeling a bit fragile anyway, amplified the pain considerably.

It was all finished with a heat massage. This was so good after the agony I had endured.

A slice of Pai...

Chilling out at the bungalow,

or down by the river,

or even at the Hot Springs.

Life was tough but we struggled through.

Cottage Pai...

Where we stayed whilst in Pai.

Not too shabby.

Ode to Swede

Cleaver in Hand,
Doc Martin on Foot.

Bomber Jacket.
Checked Shirt.

Don't forget the skinhead and
crisp white bow tie to complete the look.


La La Lala La Laa
Time filled with the condition of your car.


A life of sailing, but not always plain.
Cross Country Skiing, saying Cheseus in Vain.

Sailing boats, cross country skis,
throw in some admirable deeds.

Then Skol not once,
nor twice,
but Skol thrice,

Skol, Skol, Skol
To the Adventuring Swedes.

Ankor Wat... No Battery??

Excuse the very much over used pun, Wat??, but it had to be done.

Lets see now. The 6th March, I had arrived in Cambodia the evening of the 4th March. It had been a surprisingly long journey from Nong Khai having left on the 3rd at 1820 and arriving in Siem Reap, Cambodia, 24 hours later.

This was a combination of overnight train from Nong Khai to Bangkok, followed by what was supposed to be a nice comfortable bus to Aranyaprathet (thai side border town), then a swap to a smaller, even less comfortable bus in Poipet (Cambodia side border town), for the continuation of the journey to Siem Reap.

The comfort thing I really don't mind at all. I find that often I am able to switch off on journeys, or simply accept that it is a necessity to get me from A to B. The reason why I mention it is because when I booked the ticket I actually chose to go through one of the booking agents in the Bangkok train station. I would usually make my way to each individual point by means of local buses etc but after my train journey I wanted a little bit of simplicity and the fair was reasonable for the distance covered and the work on my part removed.

Not that it is important but there was a picture of a VIP Bus on the advertised ticket that I purchased. These buses are pretty swish and so I kind of got my hopes up for a nice cormfortable 4 hours to the border.

Oh how they lied with their fancy pictures and words..... but with a non-refundable ticket in hand and a care free attitude to go with it; on to the adequate bus I got.

This journey could be a story itself, though I don't think it warrants it, and so back to the 6th March.


Reunited with Tom and Tim, it was today that we were off to visit the world famous Ankor Wat site. We set off nice and early in the morning around 8 am I seem to recall. We had intended to get there in order to see the sunrise but altered our plans and opted for seeing just the sunset, agreeing that we would be more than satisfied with this and no doubt quite happy for the extra time in bed.

We hired bicycles for the day. Charming rickety, old things. Just the way to view a historic site.

Many a person will say take a tuk-tuk with guide but for me, I feel that cycling the site was the way to do it. It meant that we could choose our own pace, our own path, and interpret our own perceptions. Not only this but we also gained a greater sense of achievement and perhaps a more personal connection.

The site, as anyone who has visited will tell you, is incredible. It truly is awe-inspiring. No doubt about it but despite these things being very much true, I was, hmmm, not disappointed, but, well, perhaps, not as impressed as I had hoped to be.

How can I say such a thing? A wonder of the world. One of mans most amazing achievements and here I am saying that I was not as impressed as I had hoped.

I think this is due to a couple of things. Firstly, though it was to be expected, the amount to which the site is a tourist trap. I had expected it. In fact I was not too bothered by the amount of people, mostly children, who seemed to continually try to sell their wares, though wish they had of done so just outside of the temples. I think in terms of how tourism had spoilt it was evident at the famous temple that most know due to the movie Tomb Raider. I think for each of us this was a disappointment as board walks had been erected and a very linear path was put in place with what was essentially a stage for photographs next to the iconic tree. I realise that such things are put in place to help protect the aging ruins but it did take away some of the majesty of the site.

Secondly I think that the temple I visited in Phi Mai, Thailand was perhaps my favourite. This, however, was just one temple and really can not compete with the vastness of the Ankor site.

Admittedly it does struggle to compete with the main Ankor Wat itself. An absolutely magnificent wonder to behold, especially when bathed in the light of the fading sun.

We had toured the whole siteand ended with the main Ankor Wat (Wat being Temple) , in time to catch the sunset. Truly Awe-Inspiring, breath taking, and many, many other cliched words of description still may not do it justice.

Though I would maintain that one day is enough to see the site and experience a great deal, many would say 3 days is what's needed, I would definately go back and with a dedent camera I think I could spend a week there taking hundreds of photos.

This time, however, it was not to be and sadly the camera that I am using on my trip ran out of battery.

What kind of fool would travel to one of the most historic sites in history and not take a full battery.

...... Oh....... that would be me.

A fool, but a fool with vivid memories.

Don't roll in the muck....

....It's not the best way to come clean.


In regards to my last post.......... Yes, I did get pick-pocketed by a Lady-Boy.

1....2.....3...... LOL.

Apparently this is fairly common in Bangkok but truthfully it was the first I had heard of it.


I am not annoyed. I was annoyed that I had allowed it to happen but it did and so we can but endure. Ultimately it was a series of unfortunate events that culminated in a professional thief doing their job.

In no way has it sullied my view of Thailand, Bangkok, Travelling, or indeed the awesome night that ended, for me, with a pesky lady-boy of the night stealing my wallet.......


...... but thankfully not my heart.

(Then I Would Be Concerned)


And so onto other things....

My Police Report

At approximately 0500 on the morning of the 10th March, I , David Gandy, was pick-pocketed at the end of Khao San Road near the Burger King T Junction.

I had been out with two friends for a birthday celebration. We had just exited a taxi and were approached by a person whom I am sure was a transexual and was soliciting themselves sexually.

This person was insistently touching me even when told not to and that I had no interest in them. They continued to touch and grab, including private areas, and so I blocked the arms and moved them aside, all the while maintaining that I was not interested.

The person continues to annoy and touch until suddenly the person stopped, got into a Tuk-Tuk and disappeared.

A few moments later I realised that my wallet was missing from my right side pocket.

I am certain it was stolen.

Contents : Bankcards, Money, Train Tickets

Description of person: Transexual of S E Asian Origin
Approx 5"
White Shorts / Yellow Strappy Dress Style Top
Shoulder Length / Perhaps Longer Dark Hair

Contrived Pretension

I wish to avoid pretension.
I wish to avoid writing contrivedly,
Though as these words fall to the page.
I appear to be failing miserably.

When writing this or
When writing that.
What I see is so contrived,
Because as I am sure
You all have guessed.
There are elements of which I hide.

Like Lazy Days, getting up too late
and being far too idle

Making excuses
to not see movies,
For an alternative far more primal.

... But when considered,

All in all,

At the end of the day,

Just to quote some phrases.


It's human nature that we share.

To hide some things,
and only show,
that which one chooses.

Horrible Sweaty Mess

Me after training.

Today was intense.

In pain.

I really should get me one of those massages.

Thats not my shirt but that's Muay Thai

Okay, I thought I would give a bit of an insight in to the Muay Thai training.

Above in the orange is 'Ajahn' - or 'Teacher'. This is the only name I know him by. Anyone who he teaches would refer to him as the same. Outside of the Muay Thai camp then it may be fine to ask his name and address him by it but whilst training then there is always a respect shown, that it seems right to adhere to.

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This kind of respect for a teacher, or someone of higher cultural statue, for example a monk, is echoed across much of Thai life. Though witnessed a lot, it does appear that more and more the ever growing western influences and cultural ways are taking precedent over the Thai ways. It really does depend on the place that you are in, or the people that you are with.

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Ajahn's Muay Thai camp is within the village a couple of kilometers south east of Nong Khai town, or at least the part of the town that rests upon the Mekong.

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I have purchased a second hand mountain bike for my time in Nong Khai and so reach the camp using pedal power whenever I go. Thankfully in the day there are far less dogs willing to start chasing you when cycling.

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I have not committed to the training as fully as I had first considered; originally planning to commit to a month of pretty much daily training. I do not mind though. I think I would of passed out several times over if I had committed as thoroughly. In this climate, a brief walk can wipe you out so I have come to enjoy training every other day or so.

In the picture above is Kevin. Once the bartender at Gaai Bar, of Mut Mee. After reading about Muay Thai training in the Lonely Planet (other guides are available), and inquiring at Mut Mee reception I was pointed in Kevin's direction.

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Really sound guy from Hawaii, it was Kevin and his girlfriend Taia who introduced me to Ajahn.

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Typical training may consist of:

Stretching.

Several minutes jumping on large tyres to warm up.

Various bag / box work:Kicks, Knees, Elbows. Combinations of these.

Some sparring in the ring with Ajahn where he is fully padded up. (as above)

- Pushups - Sit ups

Warm down

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I become a horrible sweaty mess although this is not unusual even in winter in the UK, so I am surprised that in this heat I do not simply dwindle to nothing.

... what I forgot to mention.

Picture the scene.

You are in bar. In fact it is more like a music venue with large stage, many tables and seats and a bar. You may as well not be able to see the bar though, as you never have to visit. Table service is prevalent in most bars in Thailand.

You've had a few drinks and are fully loosened up, enjoying your company and your surroundings. A familiar urge hits you - one that often follows excess intake of fluid. You need to pee.

'Where's the toilet you ask?' wishing you had of learned this in Thai by now but glad that you are understood and pointed in the right direction.

Off you pop. A mixture of casual walking, drunken ambling, and attempted dancing. Upon entering the bathroom you are greeted by what appear to be three attendents. Unusual to have three, you think, but consider nothing of it as they actually indicate a urinal for you to use.

How kind, they are pointing the way. Most unusual but thank you.

.... and so, upon reaching designated urinal, ready to enjoy what is usually a very solitary act of relieving oneself while in a cormfortable drunkeness, hands clasp upon your shoulders, neck, head and not only do you find that you are relieving yourself, but also receiving a massage at the same time.

Quite bizarre but really, don't knock it until you've tried it.



Admittedly I was a little freaked out when hands appeared on my shoulders but the resultant massage alleviated some of my fears and was actually pretty good. My back was clicking here and there. My neck also, as it was twisted this way and the other. Even my ears, which for some reason were sort of massaged a little then yanked downwards causing them to click quite loudly.

This massage seemed to refresh you and send you on your way a little more energised.

I would advise caution however, as similar to a boat, plane or train - a toilet stop during a massage can be quite a tricky experience.

R and R - Recovery and Recooperation

The incredible heat that brings the inevitable and prolonged dehydration must be an overriding factor in today's unpleasant case of hangover.

I guess that heavy consumption of alcohol also factors in the equation but I maintain that heat and dehydation were pivotal elements.

My thanks go out though to Yaa and his friends whom I met just yesterday 19th February. For it was through Yaa inviting me to have a drink and go to a Thai bar that I enjoyed the somewhat unfamiliar feeling of a hangover.

I am currently teaching English to a guy named Toto who works at a Charity Organisation called Openmind that I had visited to inquire about work teaching English. There was no work at Openmind; in fact, like with many volunteer projects if I wanted to teach English I would of had to , hmmm, donate I guess, around about four hundred US dollars.

Erm no.

Toto contacted me a few days later though and we have arranged some private tuition to help improve pronunciation, grammar, vocubulary etc.

Teaching aside for now though; we had arranged to go for a meal with some other people that Toto work with. We had Hot Pot which was delicious. A clay pot with broth that sits atop some burning embers to continue boiling away. You then add vegetables, meat etc to the pot. You can use chopsticks to dip strips of beef in and cook just how you like. You then have dipping sauces that are spicy, sweet, sour, and bitter.

It was at the meal that Yaa had invited me for a drink afterwards and so I end up on the back of a motorbike, heading out of town, through the village where I train in Muay Thai (a little), and on to Yaa's friends shop where we drink rum and whiskey.

Six of us then go on to what Yaa had said was a Country Pub. I should perhaps say - what I had misunderstood to be a country pub. The pub itself was back in the main town and happened to have the word country in it's name. Something like 'The River Country' I think.

Despite being next to a main hotel and near to some of the guest house locations, I was the only Farang there. One farang in a sea of Thai. I mean this place was busy. It turned out that a live band was to play. They were pretty good. We got up dancing so I guess they were good, or perhaps the alcohol had reached my limbs and the part of my brain that says ' you need to dance.'

We then headed home though I somehow found some new friends who were celebrating someones birthday at one of the bars closer to my appartment and so my night was not quite ready to end. Some beer and several whiskeys later, I find myself getting to bed when the sun was coming up.

It was a very good night, though one that I doubt will be repeated any time soon. Still I managed to experience a Thai night out, at least by Nong Khai standards, and had a good old time doing so.



My trip so far has had a certain amount of Rest and Relaxation but today was certainly more Recovery and Recooperation.

Acclimatising - Pitching in and Settling Down

From one place to another.
From the present to the past.
Back to Koh Muk to continue at last.

Beauty of the Human Spirit

I believe I had left the journey around December 8th, upon reaching 'Emerald Creek' on the island of Koh Muk, off the coast of Trang, Southern Thailand. This is where we would spend four weeks, acclimatising to our new surroundings.

We had expected that Koh Muk was off the main traveller circuit as we had not previously heard of it, but later on in our travels a Scottish fella by the name of John would claim how surprised he was that we had managed to get their, as in traveller terms, it was very remote.

How true this was, I am unsure. I certainly know that it was not a haven for backpackers and this was perhaps the main reason we liked it so much. I do not want this to come across as an anti-backpacker, anti-traveller, anti-tourist post. In fact I have just deleted and re-written this a couple of times. I fall quite neatly into any of the above categories. I may as well have several labels hanging off me: Tourist, Traveller, Backpacker, Farang. Like anything though it is so easy to associate what you see with the worst case scenario. Us brits have made quite a name for ourselves across the globe with our heavy drinking - There's a label we carry.

I am very much of the mind set that generalisation is a bad thing and yet still an inevitability and so despite my best efforts, I find myself liking the idea that a place is free from your stereotypical backpackers, the majority of which are the nicest people you are ever likely to meet.

Right, I trust that those still reading are suitably baffled and confused by what most likely appeared as gibberish. We can now continue.

Koh Muk. A beautiful island off the coast of Trang, Southern Thailand. Book through a travel agent and you may find this lovely place and no doubt stay at either the somewhat high priced Siwali Resort, or the not so high priced Charlie Beach Resort. Stumble across it on your own, however, and discover something more beautiful then any resort can conjure. At least this is what happened for us.

Emerald Creek was fairly central to the island, at least to the developed part of the island. From what I could tell, most of the island is still undeveloped. The modest place consisted of three bungalows available to rent. There was also a shop and a kitchen area where you could order food, which could then be eaten under shelter but in open air across from the shop.

The bungalows are lovely, though this is dependent on peoples standards as we witnessed a couple decide not to stay. The reasons for which I will never be able to guess (perhaps it was the presence of tents in their front garden.) The bungalows were in a garden setting with various different fruit trees and plants.

Utit from what we could tell was the owner. We did not ask too many questions about the hierachy or how the place ran but it was certainly Utit who appeared to run the place. He, his wife and son, would stay in the small house attached to the shop. Mou was his wife and Nim was his son, whom I believe was reaching two years of age. There was also Jeaw, who would normally cook any meals that were ordered and Pong who stayed in a room attached to the dining shelter, seperate to the house. It was never fully established how Jeaw and Pong were related to the family but you could see that they were family, even if not directly.

The place itself was not what made our experience of Koh Muk so memorable. There are many beautiful islands. We in fact never went to see the main attraction of the island, 'Emerald Cave'. It was the above mentioned people who made the beginning four weeks of our journey so special. I in fact describe these times and experiences with reluctance as I don't want to diminish the generosity we received by turning it into an advertisement or open invitation.

I could only really describe it as being accepted into their lives for four weeks. We were not charged to pitch our tents, which was tremendous generosity itself, but once we had stayed a while, we were also invited to eat with the family rather than order our meals.

We would help where we could, though our work tidying the garden and helping to collect good soil for the plants was nothing in comparison to the kindness we received. We would of liked to of done more but it seemed Utit's nature was to give openly and not think one moment about receiving.

Utit would work long hours at Siwalli resort in order to support his family. He would also help run the shop with the rest of his family. His father, a good old age, would work extremely hard in the garden and around their land. Mou would manage the shop with Jeaw and also look after Nim. We were also fortunate enough to meet their daughter Yok and Mou's sister Pakpaw, with whom we stayed a day in Krabi.

Despite the necessity of everyday life : work, family, more work etc. To their eyes we did not carry the labels of Farang with money. They gave openly of themselves, their home and food. It is people like this who remind us that the world is beautiful in many ways and I will always be grateful for their kindness and acceptance.

Not only did we acclimatise to the heat and humidity, but the the kindness of Thai people. Land of smiles - Thailand truly is, though I always consider that an experience like this is never linked to just one place. The human spirit can be found the world over and it is rare that you even have to look. It can be stumbled across quite unknowingly.

Comment for Comments

Hello to you wonderful people who have chosen to follow my Blog.

I would just like to say that I have only very recently noted the various comments on some of the posts.

I apologise for not acknowledging these sooner but am grateful for your comments and invite you to continue to comment whenever you feel the need.

They are very much appreciated even if I do not notice them straight away.

For those that exist and for any future comments. I thank you all.

Catch 22 and Smelly Gamers

I am going to be brief for now as the odour from these youngsters playing online games is becoming too much for me to endure.

Sorry to the online gaming community that do not smell. It is not a generalisation just a truth at this time. This odour coupled with a bad internet connection is not making this bout of blogging / checking e mail the most enjoyable.

Not just smelly. Loud too. Yeesh. Get away from my chair.


Anyway. I am currently in Nong Khai. I have been struggling to find a nice environment for me to sit at a length of time to bring my Blog up to date and so I'm just going to tell it like it is right now.

I decided to stop here in order to study Muay Thai. Tom and Tim have continued into Laos, as was our original plan. We shall no doubt meet up again a bit later on down the road but there is nothing set in stone.

I hope to catch up with them in Siem Reap, Cambodia so that the three of us can go to Ankor Wat. We had spoke of hiring motor bikes and seeing as much of the massive ancient site of ruins as we could in one day and so we shall hopefully still make this a reality.

For now though I am still surrounded by noisy smelly youngsters whose eyes are either fixed on computer screens or whom are running about behind me creating unnecessary commotion. What's with all the commotion.

Today I am a grumpy old Farang.


I am in a Catch 22. I stayed in order to study Muay Thai and that was fine and I really have enjoyed what training I have done. Each person I met though said it would be easy for me to find teaching work here.

I think that would be true if there were not just a month of school term left. Each school I have visited has seemed keen but once the academic term starts up again. I don't imagine at the end of term with no funds left any department would be hiring, let alone hiring a Farang. It would also mean arranging my 3 month Thai work Visa, which again, I imagine any school wanting to hire would do so at the beginning of term to not only have the funds to pay but also have a greater chance of longer commitment to work.

So - Heres my situation. I have paid for a months accomodation, which is fine as it means that I have got it at a better price than when the three of us were paying day by day. I am, however, now somewhat resigned to staying in Nong Khai. I need the work in order to justify paying for training but despite people helping me find work, not enough opportunities have yet arisen.

Nong Khai is a nice enough place, but if the training in Muay Thai does not seem viable due to cost restrictions then I think I would rather move on. Then with food, travel, accomodation costs rising a bit - I may as well stay. ... but with no job, meaning no training, then .... well you get my point.

Catch 22 and smelly gamers.

Krabi Temple - Many Monkeys, Many Steps.

With not much time before I have to return my rental bike - I thought I would recount the story of the temple we visited in Krabi on the fourth January.




We stayed on Koh Muk for four weeks or there abouts with Utit and his family. Some of the kindest and most generous people we could of hoped to of met.



Our plan when leaving Koh Muk was to get the ferry and make our own way back to Trang and gain transport, inevitably train, to Surat Thani where we were to meet Tom. This plan did not come to fruition however as the families generosity continued.



We had met Muu's sister previously when she visited Koh Muk one weekend. It became apparent that Yok, Utit and Muu's daughter, lived in Krabi with Pak Pow where she attended school. Pak pow was Muu's sister and Utit offered to drive us to Krabi where they would drop off Yok and we could stop with Muu's family.



We were only able to stop the one night due to time constraints in getting to Surat Thani but Pak Pow had already arranged for some of her friends to drop by with their pick up truck. Several of us then clambered into the back of the truck and we went on a tour of Krabi. We took in sites such as a waterfall, where I nearly broke my foot, the Ao nang district with amazing karst scenery and beautiful beaches.



I would say the most memorable visit though was to the main temple in the Krabi area which was set upon a mountain top. There were 1237 steps to the top where the temple was situated. This didn't seem like too daunting a task but I don't think either Tim or myself had really considered the gradient of the mountain we were heading up.



The karst scenery found across many countries within asia / south east asia is amazing to look at. Huge monlith style cliffs that appear to of simply erupted from the ground with vast imposing walls.



Well..... It was a similar type of monolith that our temple destination sat upon.



There was a chance that the steps may be steep.



They were.



I don't think the video does full justice to the scale of some of the sections that we ascended but no doubt my constant gasping for breath and excessive sweating, even for me, will be some indication of the task we endured.

Tsunami Sign of Change

Charlie Beach Life

Charlie Beach is the place we would head most days while we stayed on Koh Muk. A gorgeous beach with excellent swimming and snorkelling.

Though Charlie Beach was a resort itself - we were fine to use the beach, so all was good.

We would wake most mornings, maybe tidy the garden where we were staying - rake leaves etc - dependant on whether it needed doing. After which we would head towards Charlie beach a 2km walk at most.

On the way we would likely stop off at Hill Top Restaurant and have a Coffee.

Fortunately we were liked by the owner, a Thai lady named Song, and so would often have a free breakfast - always watermelon, often toast, and on an occasion pancakes. We did help revamp her menus though and she became more generous after this.

She was really nice but I often thought her persistence in saying hello to 'farangs' was what may of been keeping them at bay.

Silly Farangs.

Paradisde Found

Across the expanse of the Ocean,

Above the vastness of the Mountain,

Farther than the Eagle Soars.

Paradise Lost on distant shores

Closer now than was before,

Nearer still to what we know.

To what we were once so Blind.

Paradise Found within our Mind.

Journey Recap

At Charlie Beach, Koh Muk. Recapping journey there.

Images / Video - En Route to Koh Mook

Hitch Hike, Paddy Whack, Pick Up Truck, Kayak

The eighth of December 2008. The day that we leave Old Lady Yoda's lovely homestay for pastures new.

We had stayed a couple of nights after arriving very early in Trang after a fifteen hour train journey. It seemed right to unwind and settle for a day or two before continuing on to an island off the coast. We needed to recharge a little, or perhaps a lot, considering it had been constant travel up to this point.

On the morning of the eighth though we had decided to continue our journey. Pak Meng had originally been decided upon as a destination from Trang as according to a guide book we had there was the pier for getting Long Tail Boats to the various islands. In the two days we had spent at Pak Meng however, we had discovered that prices in Long Boats are charged per mile, unless an official taxi boat, and it was seeming that we may be lookking at around a 1000 baht for the journey to Koh Muk - our chosen island destination.

We needed to get this price dropped and were preparing ourselves for some negotions with different boat owners when we happened to stumble across a fairly official tourist information centre. I don't recall it being a TAT (tourism authority of thailand) office but nonetheless it did seem official.

The official offices are your best source for information as you are not hassled by competing tour guide / operators trying in vain to give you the information they wish and take you to places where they will earn commission. A comfortable enough way to travel but inevitably you will end up paying more and travelling the same circuits as everybody else.

We learnt from the information office that there was a ferry that travelled from Kuantuku pier (this may be spelt incorrectly). Kuantuku was around twenty to thirty kilometres away and taxis though available seemed mainly to be between Trang and the different coastal areas. We did not want to head back on ourselves to Trang.

It was agreed - we would hitch hike to kuantuku and catch the ferry to Koh Muk. We had seen plenty of traffic passing through Pak Meng in the direction we needed, many of which had been pick up trucks - the ideal hitch hike vehicle for backpackers.

We set off on the morning of the eighth, heading along the road in the direction of Kuantuku. The road seemed far more quiet than we had remembered. Afting trudging perhaps two kilometres we had not been passed by a vehicle but also discovered why.

The bridge over the river was out. Bonne.

After a failed conversation with the construction workers at the bridge we decided to head down to the beach and contemplate things. We had been trying to ask them whether we could cross over the river on the beach where the water was lower but it seemed obvious that they were telling us to turn around and go back round the long way.

We did not want to back up on ourselves but upon reaching the rivers edge on the beach it began to seem the only option and disappointment was beginning to rise.

Then I glimpsed something. Across the river seemed to be a fairly new or perhaps refurbished resort. At it's side near the river were a collection of kayaks.

'How about I swim over and ask to borrowed a kayak'

It was clearly the right choice for our situation. I swam across what became a much wider expanse than first expected and was straight away greeted by a concierge type thai fellow. He was more than happy to lend me the kayak for the purpose of transporting our bags across, and so back across the river I paddled. We loaded up the kayak and successfully negotiated the obstacle that had presented itself.

After a brief stop we headed through the resort and back on to the road. We must of hiked around eight or so kilometres before we did have some luck. The diversions due to the bridge were not a help. A kind thai lady in a pick up asked us if we were going to Pak Meng - evidently where she was going. It seemed Kuantuku was back the way she came. She drove us so far though and dropped us at Kuantuku homestay.

We were not about to stop the journey there and get a room for the night. We asked the owner if we could get to the pier. Still perhaps ten kilometres away. He seemed doubtful at first but after having given us some water and allowed us to rest for a moment he appeared with small motorbike and lifted his index finger to indicate one person.

I took the opportunity and hoiked my large rucksack onto my back and got on the back of the bike. Holding my smaller pack to the side I journied the rest of the way to the pier precariously balanced on the back of a scooter.

Once we arrived my suspicions were confirmed and it seemed the ferry had already gone. Though we had considered this we knew that boats would still be much cheaper from the pier as the distance was much less. The man from the homestay had sent one of the boat owners back to fetch Tim and when he arrived we negotiated a price of 400 baht to get us to the island.

Once arrived the begginning of our journey, the first stage, was nearly complete - we just needed a place to stay on our new island home. Once again we set off on foot from the islands pier knowing that some of the taxis would simply take us to the largest 'farang' based resort. About a kilometre or so into the island we came across Emerald Creek. It looked like we may be able to pitch our tents. We asked and a thai lady said that it wouldn't be a problem.

We pitched up and settled in, at that point not knowing this would become practically a home from home with no charge for accomadation.

A Moment of Clarity

My scenario yesterday, around noon ; I was lying in the hammock of my bungalow, Long Beach Resort, Ko Chang (west coast). The beach just a stepping distance away, the soothing sound of the ocean rolling over was echoing somewhere in the distance of my mind as I read my chosen book and relaxed the morning away.

I had already decided that I wanted an image of myself recling in the hammock with my sunnies on. I'm not entirely sure why. Maybe I thought i'd look cool, maybe I just liked the way my sun glasses matched the hammack.

I was reading 'Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas' by Hunter S. Thompson. An awesome book and film. Anyone who has read the book, watched the movie, or indeed are simply familiar with the content will know, as the cover itself indicates, that it is 'A savage journey to the heart of the American Dream.'

Around noon yesterday, on the beautiful island of Ko Chang, I was nearing the end of the book. My minded wandered and it suddenly struck me as odd that I was filling my minds eye with such bizarre imagery and events set in a time I did not know, when in the here and now I was surrounded by beauty and calm.

I had already been determined that today I would continue to update my own story but in that moment yesterday, there in the hammock, nearing the end of a disturbed tale, it became more imperative to recount some of the wonders I had thus far seen and experienced.

The glasses were not in anyway a reading aid. Just a gimmick to help paint the picture.

Old Lady Yoda and Mysterious 23

Where to start. Well, I guess at the beginning. The beginning of any extended travel though starts with the notion of doing it. Of committing the thought process to a certainty ahead. That, I would imagine, does not work well as a blog and so we shall start with the beginning of the Journey itself.

On the morning of the 4th December, the day of departure, I did not actually wake in my own bed. I woke early on Naomi's couch set to head into town to pick up Dave's birthday present when the shops opened at 9am. I did so and headed straight home as quickly as I could muster as we had a train to catch at 11am and I still needed to pack my things that I had organised and laid out the night before.

Admittedly, my forward planning for the day of departure was perhaps not the best but the tasks at hand passed with fluidity so that there was no lingering, no anticipation of when we were going to set off. There was simply motion from the moment I woke to the moment my father arrived to take us to the train station. A fluidity that was set to cotinue from train to tube, and from tube, to airport.

Despite what could of been perceived as a frantic start, everything did fall into place and the entire journey was a very effortless process. The tube conjured up memories of my previous travels linking them also with the awesome tube journeys I had been on in New York.

The effortlessness continued with each flight and we were soon enough on a bus from Bangkok airport headed to Bangkok train station for our journey to South Thailand and the province of Trang. We had connected en route in Amman - a fairly small airport where I almost became lost in the bizarre symmetry of it's departure lounge.

It seemed as if we were forever surrounded by the Mysterius number 23. Each segment of the journey seemed to be linked with 23, whether it was my seat, tim's seat, or our baggage claim number. This became apparent on our long sleeper train journey to Trang also where one of our sleeper compartments was again number 23.

15 hours by Train and so after arriving in Thailand on the 5th Dcember, we then arrived at one of it's southern most provincial capitals at 8am on the 6th December.

We quickly set about locating a bus in order to quickly and inexpensively journey us to one of the beach towns where we could get a boat to one of the southern islands. This beach town, well if it could be named a town, was called Pak Meng. A long stretch of 5km beautiful beach with a pier for the boats. A choice of varying priced accomodation, though gladly after being shocked by the price of the first we were approaced by who I affectionately like to call 'Old Lady Yoda'. She offered us a room for 300 baht and we glady accepted.

It was at Old Lady Yoda's where we first settled from travel and from where the beginning of our travels in Thailand were set to start. As you can see from the video, it was superb room with all that we could want after such a long stint of travel.